Salad Glory from the Noodle Issue


that some of you are wondering why we, the duly designated officials at the Department of Salad (DOS), have decided that issuing an official salad bulletin is necessary in a landscape of newspaper food sections, magazines, and cookbooks. We could go into how we feel that Salad has lived a lifetime as an afterthought (in restaurants), been given appalling short shrift by many of you (“Oh, I’ll just have a salad”), and been avoided at home for reasons we cannot begin to fathom. We plan to explicate all these important topics in future issues.


A helluva lot. PAID subscribers (just $5.50 monthly or $50 yearly) get full access to all issues, plus bonus bulletins with extra recipes and special treats, including Q & A sessions and comment threads, where we’ll listen to you (and take occasional requests!) and we can all get together and talk salads. Plus: full access to the archive, which is glorious. All subscribers, paid or free, get one bulletin a week with at least one great recipe, for now. Lucky you! We have so much—so much—to say. But for now, here’s the Who, What, When, Where, and Why, but not in that order.

Who? Emily Nunn, Salad CEO, and her crew of guests and salad lab technicians—meaning chefs, home cooks, writers, and other people we admire—who make good salad. Some will be your basic food characters, and some will not. Because not all good food writers are employed as food writers. (And not all food writers are interesting, some can’t cook, and some of them are annoying.)

What? A weekly missive that will not just inform you about the glories of salad—past, present, and possibly future—but also supply you with recipes and dressings to keep you in salad year-round. And know this: you don’t necessarily have to like lettuce. You don’t have to be a vegetarian, but it’s fine if you are, because we’ll be exploring the salad spectrum: chicken, beef, fish, bean, grain, fruit, and straight up vegetable salads, as well as hot and cold concoctions. Also: We at the DOS do not by any means consider salad a “diet” food, so get that out of your head this instant. At this point, our hopeful lineup of regular features will include CHEF SALAD (coercing people we admire to chat with us and give us their salad recipes), TEST KITCHEN (an inconsistent mix of product and gadget recommendations, extra recipes, and ideas for smoother and more delicious weekly salad making), and, occasionally, BOOKS.

When? Weekly—with a couple of weeks off for vacation, because we’ll need time to eat pizza and hamburgers—on Fridays (sometimes, over the weekend; we’re trying to figure out the best day for everyone). Bonus paid content will arrive (like a birthday present) during the week. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.

Where? Your inbox, of course; with salad notes coming from all over this fragile, beautiful, tragic, wonderful, stinking planet. 

Why? Because our CEO and only full-time employee, Emily Nunn—who wrote all the stuff above and is pretending she has a fully staffed laboratory when in fact she works alone in a kitchen smaller than the back of a mini-van—believes that salad can make your life better. Emily spent a long time as a magazine and newspaper journalist, often covering restaurants and food, first at the New Yorker magazine as the editor of Tables for Two and later at the Chicago Tribune. She eventually wrote a book called “The Comfort Food Diaries,” which was allegedly about comfort food, a thing she’s not sure she’s ever really believed in until she became a warrior for salad. Today, Salad is Emily’s comfort food.  (Photo by Dorothy Griffith)


emily nunn 
My newsletter is The Department of Salad. I wrote "The Comfort Food Diaries," an NPR Best Book of 2017. Former editor at the New Yorker Magazine and features and food reporter at the Chicago Tribune.